Today we had the best weather of the week… a bit of rain
this a.m. and then SUN SHINE!!! Windy in
some places (like on the Atlantic point of St. Ninian’s), but geneally
calm. What a great day!
We started by driving to the southernmost tip of Shetland,
Sumburgh and the Sumburgh Lighthouse.
Sumburgh Head is a HUGE rock formation upon which sits the lighthouse
complex. Besides providing safe
navigation for countless watercraft, during WWII there was a secret radar unit
on site gave early warning which prevented the Nazi Luftwaffe from destroying
the British Home Fleet at Scapa Flow in the neighboring island of Orkney.
To say the rock formation is huge is understatement. Reading the geology of the area is
amazing. Google Sumburgh Head geology
for more info. Dan hiked up to the top
where the vista was amazing. The seabirds
nesting in the cliffs were abundant. I
even saw a Grey Seal resting on one of the rocks. Later we drove up so Kathy could see it
also. Great views in all directions.
Then it was time for lunch, so we stopped at the Sumburgh Hotel. The hotel was built as a home in 1867, and is a busy place because of tourists and the nearby Sumburgh Airport. The bar is ok, too, having both Highland Park (Orkney) and Talisker (Skye) scotch. An additional attraction was the Jarlshof Archaeological site next door, where Dan took the tour and saw 4000 years of history… from remnants of Stone Age huts, Iron Age broch and wheelhouses, to a sizable Viking village of longhouses and medieval farmstead, to the medieval stone farmhouse which was converted into a fortified house during the 16th century by the “Laird” (Lord) Robert Stewart, 1st Earl of Orkney. (after Scotland annexed Shetland). A very good tour with audible explanations made for an intriguing hour. Amazing to believe that people have been living on that same site for nearly 4000 years!
Then it was time for lunch, so we stopped at the Sumburgh Hotel. The hotel was built as a home in 1867, and is a busy place because of tourists and the nearby Sumburgh Airport. The bar is ok, too, having both Highland Park (Orkney) and Talisker (Skye) scotch. An additional attraction was the Jarlshof Archaeological site next door, where Dan took the tour and saw 4000 years of history… from remnants of Stone Age huts, Iron Age broch and wheelhouses, to a sizable Viking village of longhouses and medieval farmstead, to the medieval stone farmhouse which was converted into a fortified house during the 16th century by the “Laird” (Lord) Robert Stewart, 1st Earl of Orkney. (after Scotland annexed Shetland). A very good tour with audible explanations made for an intriguing hour. Amazing to believe that people have been living on that same site for nearly 4000 years!
Stone Age huts ca. 800 BC
This is remains of a broch -- a double-walled house from 400 BC - 100 AD. Brochs are found only in Scotland.
This is a wheel-house... so named because of the pillars which both held up the roof and provided "rooms". A later version of the broch or round house.
The Pictish culture, generally believed to be Celtic people, lived in the area ca 400-1000 AD. These ruins(right). Picts became absorbed into the Scottish culture by about 11th century.
Ruins of a Midieval Farmhouse... circa 1350. It was noted that barley was now (again?) used to make a fermented beverage...
These are the ruins of the 16th century home that stood near the ruins. The "Laird" towered over all!!! In the late 1800's, none of the ruins were visible until a tremendous storm washed away enough sand to show some stones, and then folks started digging. In front of the hall we see tombstones... possibly from shipwrecked sailors, more likely the "temporary" burial site for a local church which had been wrecked by a storm.
A quick stop at the Quendale Water Mill followed… the mill is restored, and has an exhibition of old farming methods and “croft” (a small rented farm) implements. We chatted with a lady in the visitor center who had been to Wisconsin several times after connecting with students from the UW who were in an exchange program. This was followed by finding (with little help from our TomTom) the home of a wool spinner listed on the Shetland Craft Trail… alas her shop was closed until July. Kathy was disappointed. Along the way we mailed a postcard at a Royal Mailbox sitting out at an intersection adjacent to farm fields… a perfect photo op!
Then it was back to St. Ninian’s Isle. After our brief visit there previously, I
told Kathy I wanted to hike up on the island… so off I went while she knitted
and read. I wanted to get to the northern
point, called “Loose Head”, so since I didn’t know how far it was I had to
hustle. It was an energetic walk, going
up a good part of the way. The views
were incredible, and there are a number of places where the ocean cuts deep
bays into the island—and the cliffs are/seemed hundreds of feet about the
sea. Many sheep were grazing on the
isle. My walk was close to 1 ½ hours and
by the time I got back I was whipped, but it was truly a wonderful experience. This is where I started...
Then home… good food and good rest. We are truly fortunate to be making this
trip!
MISC: A few photos taken just for fun:
The airport runway crossing the road... or does the road cross the runway? One can see road going off at the top of the photo.
Below is a quintessential Scotland photo: stone wall, horses grazing, fishing boat.
MISC: A few photos taken just for fun:
Why was it too scary to go out on the tip? Bennett
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